Thursday, December 8, 2011

Bali, Penang and Langkawi

If the world is a treasure trove, then travelling is a sure shot way of discovering, unraveling, enjoying and basking in the beauty of this treasure. To experience, interpret, draw parallels and discover differences in the way people live, believe and understand their surroundings, is so fascinating.

Our trip to Indonesia and Malaysia began on a note of hope, promise and excitement. After a long haul via Kuala Lampur, we reached our destination – Bali. The sight at the airport made me believe that my hopes are going to be more than fulfilled. Bali airport had a very laidback, old world charm to it, with beautiful sculptures, majestic gates and hordes of Australian tourists (with their surfboards and bikinis – (totally to the Pati's delight) and swimming trunks, all in place).

In my mind, I had thought of Bali as a small town, only to realize that we would almost take a hour and a quarter to reach our resort in Ubud – the cultural capital of Bali. The drive from the airport was absolutely scenic and the traffic minimal.  The air had a balmy, relaxed quality to it and it really woke me up to the fact that living in Mumbai has made me forget the scent of fresh air.

As we entered Ubud, the sight of streets lined with small, beautiful art and craft shops with an almost unending displays of a range of stuff - Mosiac mirrors, plates, guitar works in all hues and colors, stone sculptures that were not just beautiful but master art pieces, each telling a story of its own and wooden artifacts that seemed like someone had poured their souls and hearts in it.

The hotel where we were putting up was this beautiful villa with only 5 suites, each so totally removed from the other that it felt as if we were only inhabitants of the place. The Villa was beautifully landscaped with stairs that seemed like a maze, pool hidden by the trees, rooms with a view of tropical forests, private balconies with mushy beds, bathrooms that open up in forest and the only noise that one could hear was that of tropical birds and creatures.

The next 4 days in Bali were almost dreamlike - cycling excursions across paddy fields on narrow lanes, with rivulets flowing past on one side, visiting Balinese artisan family houses in villages (complete with Northern, western, eastern and southern sections – each with a dedicated use and to accommodate their joint families), seeing beautiful temples, offering prayers with the locals, being one with the nature, marveling at the beauty of Mt. Batur, Kintamani ( an active volcano site) overlooking lake Batur, seeing Barong and kecak dances, feeding monkeys at the Monkey forest, getting pampered with heavenly massages, opening up all my sense to inhale the aromas at the coffee plantations, listening to the sound of crickets in dense jungles, shopping for beautiful clothes and amazing artifacts at the flee markets of Ubud, taking in the sunset at Semniyak beach, sipping my drink to the sounds of some soul stirring music on the beach side. Bali is going to live in my memory forever.

Here's my list of what were the 6 most incredulous things I discovered during my stay at Bali:
  • The spiritualism of the locals, the beauty of their rituals, the simplicity of their faith. In Bali you would come across offering called cecang sari (a small bamboo tray sort of structure) with flowers, rice, incense sticks kept inside it. People offer as many as 3 to 5 offerings every day and they are everywhere outside the hotel, outside/inside shops, temples.

  • The fact that arts are so interwoven in the lives of Balinese people. It's a way of life for them, it's around them, and it's in them. To see young boys and girls studying music, dance,  painting, goldsmithing and silversmithing, is so heart warming.

  • The food – now that's an area where I discovered something incredulous about myself. I could not adapt my buds to the local taste, being a vegetarian only made things difficult. I always thought that I am pretty experimental with my food, but alas! in Bali I almost started daydreaming about Indian food. So I discovered that food wise, I really am a creature of comfort. And talking about food, the Pati – who happens to be a food aficionado was hogging all the theplas that our loving parents had forcibly thrusted in our bags much to our chagrin then and delight later.

  •  The way locals would start talking about Shahrukh Khan, the moment they realized we were Indians, made us realize that Shahrukh is big overseas.

  • The culture of a place, the attitude of its people is reflected in such small ways. I mean the fact that nobody, really nobody, was driving above the speed of 50-60 Kmph on empty roads, and non- monitored traffic areas, to me reflected their sense of discipline and relaxed lives.

  • The way the story of Ramayan, the legend of Sri Ram and Sita is a part of their culture is so fascinating. Hindu deities - Ram, Lakhshman, Sita, Hanuman, Vishu, Shiva, Brahma are everywhere. Their stories have found way in the dances, paintings, prayers and more importantly have been adapted as per their culture. It is amazing to watch the story of Ramayana being told through Kecak dance with Ram and Sita dressed in typical Indonesian attire.
    Made me think that for a story to be so well known across so many countries, through so many centuries, only meant that it really had to be true in some form or other.

And now the photologue

Mosaic Art

A Balinese temple ceremony

A Kecak Dance performance 

Another Kecak Dance performance 




The Villa I stayed in

More Mosaic's

At a coffee plantation

Outside the room at the Hotel I stayed in

After Bali, our next destination was Penang in Malaysia. Penang was so unlike Bali in so many ways and yet so alike. Penang is an industrailzied modern city, well -planned and decent infrastructure.
Here's my list of must - do's at Penang:
  • Go to one of the innumerable beach shacks at Batur Ferranghi and have a nice drink or two as you look at the waves and wonder how far have the waters travelled and what's their story or just get drunk on music and lights…

  • Shop in the flee markets of Batur Ferranghi.

  • Visit 'Little India' – township of Tamilian immigrants to Malaysia who have literally created a small Tamil Nadu in Malaysia, replete with shops, restaurants, Ayurvedis spas, Tollywood music and all things Tamilian. Have a Banana leaf thali – it's as authentic and as tasty as they come.

  •  Take a trishaw trip across Georgetown, it's pretty, charming and fun. Trishaw is pretty similar to Indian cycle rickshaws, by the way.

  • Read the story of 'Fort Cornwallis' and Penang, if you are a history buff. Even if you are not, it's fun.
 So at the end of two days in Penang, we hopped on this flight that took us to Langkawi. It's more of an island hopping than a flight, because the moment the plane takes off it hovers over water and continues to do so until you see the stretch of land, that's Langkawi.

Outside a Chinese Temple 

Photographing the Bartender after a major drunken revelry



A special thanks to our Pilot who ensured that we stayed low and saw deep into that stretch of aquamarine, crystal like, scintillating liquid that makes life possible on earth – Water! beautiful, clear and gorgeous waters!
So the plane descended and we stepped out of the airport. Mr. Wikipedia had already told us that we should take a taxi and drive it ourselves to have fun maximized in the island city. So after some stupid haggling, we finalized a taxi and dashed straight to 'Pentai Cenang' – the most happening beach of the town. 

The Pati being an adventure freak and me being the ever realist, settled on an activity that seemed like the judicious mix of adrenaline rush and caution – parasailing.

And so our minders took us to this another island with nothing and nothing else other than vegetation so dense, that one can't see a tiny hint of sunlight once one steps inside them. We off course did not step inside, but took off on our flights from the outskirts of the beach itself, and in the blink on an eye I was cruising at an altitude that makes one giddy, chanting Gayantri Mantra (I cursed myself for not knowing the Hanuman Chalisa. Such is life dearies!) and thinking of my life, my accomplishments, my failures etc etc.

I for once checked down and my head felt totally spinning out of control, all my senses paralyzed. Finally, I surrendered and let myself go and just at that moment saw the instructors waving their hands urging me to do something. I did what little I could remember from their instruction set (that came with a warning- We are not responsible if something happens to you. Mean boys! I swear..) and soon enough I was happily tasting land (like seriously tasting, I had a bad landing you see!).

And thereafter began our sight - seeing of Langkawi. For the Pati, it was also eye- candy spotting, what with beaches replete with Baywatch babes. I let him be though, you see, he was on a holiday and I am all for freedom with responsibility and all the riders that come along.

The rest of the days in langkawi were fun in equal measure, and what is a travel blog without travel must-do's, must- see's, must- visit's and so on and so forth, so here it is:
  • The cable car ride off-course. Spotting the places where 'the Sharukh the Khan' throws the bag to Arjun Rampal in Don.

  •  Taking any of the Jungle hike tours. You might come across a mighty lizard swimming in all it's glory, alongside you in any of the water spots in these jungles

  • Some picture clicking in front of the Eagle spot in Langkawi

  • Buy some duty free stuff from the markets and malls. Apparels could be totally excluded but souvenirs – totally yes.

  •  Go beach- swimming on an isolated beach with pristine, calm waters

  •  Go mangrove forest sight- seeing

  •  Eat fresh out of the sea, sea- fare (if you are a non-vegetarian, that is)

  • Sipping on the drinks, listening to live bands, as you watch the sun descend at Pentai Cenang or Pentai Tengah

I think the rest could be discovered as you go along